Autumn eats in Zurich
How do I know fall is here? The Wild [German for ‘game’ – the kind you eat, not the kind you play] menus posted outside almost every single restaurant in Zurich told me so. Despite the title, even vegetarians like me can rejoice in these seasonal culinary offerings. Good restaurants offer at least one fall vegetarian option, and the ones I’ve tested so far have been pretty delicious.
Seasonal starters include soups such as creamy porcini or pumpkin. For the main course, flakey pastries filled with wild mushroom ragù are popular, as are pumpkin ravioli. Or you could just go for a big plate of seasonal vegetables served with some spatzle. These fall vegetable plates can include red and white cabbage, chestnuts, chanterelles or other mushrooms, poached pears, Brussels sprouts, braised grapes, and cranberry sauce.
For the carnivores, there’re offerings such as deer schnitzel, jugged deer, and some sort of wild boar. These freshly-hunted meats are usually served with some sort of the vegetables I listed above.
The dessert menu swings a little seasonal, too. There are lots of berries and berry sorbets, and several other perfectly acceptable offerings. But there’s one I feel it’s my duty to warn you about. Even if you’re a chestnut aficionado, as I am, don’t get suckered into ordering the ‘vermicellis’ dessert. This is basically some sort of chestnut-sugar paste extruded into wormlike shapes and served with a meringue and a dollop of whipped cream. I don’t know exactly what they do to the chestnuts, but they come out tasting awful.
Apparently the Swiss don’t share my distaste for chestnut worms, because the stuff is EVERYWHERE. Not only has every restaurant in town added it to the menu, it’s also prominently featured in every pastry shop and supermarket. If only fresh roasted chestnuts were this easy to come by…