International Glühwein Tour 2006 (part 1)


We spent the weekend Christmas-market-hopping around our little corner of Europe. On Friday I introduced fellow blogger Ali and my mother-in-law to that most delicious of Christmas treats, Glühwein (hot spiced wine, for those who haven’t been following along). This took place in the courtyard of the Landesmuseum, a large castle right next to the Zurich train station. In December, the courtyard becomes a little winter paradise, complete with ice skating rink and multiple food and drink stands serving up hot beverages and raclette.

I’m happy to report that the Glühwein was a hit all around (unlike last year when I made Swiss Mrs. try it for the first time – she found it vile. I don’t know what’s wrong with her, either.)

On Saturday we headed north to Baden Baden (not to be confused with Baden), a medium-sized town in Germany with a cute walking-district in the center and a big outdoor Christmas market (as opposed to the Zurich market, which loses quaintness points for being indoors). We spent the day wandering around and sampling various German Christmas treats, such as Glühwein, Magenbrot, Glühwein, roasted chestnuts, and Glühwein.

We were impressed with the wide variety of Glühwein variants on offer, such as white Glühwein, Glühwein with amaretto and oranges, Glühwein with Kirsch, and Glühwein with Jägermeister, just to name a few. We also liked that it was served in real mugs rather than styrofoam cups. One pays a Pfand, or deposit, on the mugs, and can choose to keep them as souvenirs or return them to the Glühwein stand to retrieve this deposit.

The next day we took the train over to France to check out the famous Strasbourg Christmas market. It was certainly the most crowded Christmas market I have ever been to, and probably the largest, as well. The large gothic cathedral in the center of town reminded me a little of Milan’s, and looked quite picturesque surrounded by a sea of Christmas market stands and an ice skating rink. The Glühwein (or vin chaud, as it is called in France) was served in horribly flimsy plastic cups, but at least it tasted pretty good. We had some delicious cheese and walnut savory crepes for lunch at a stand run by a very entertaining French couple. I also found a stand selling a delicious white Glühwein, which outdid even the German version.

Overall Germany is winning the international Glühwein competition, with Switzerland coming in a not-so-close second. France didn’t do so badly, but it lost major points for the flimsy hard-to-handle plastic cups. Don’t the French understand the importance of presentation?

4 thoughts on “International Glühwein Tour 2006 (part 1)”

  1. Love the pictures! All the best Christmas’s I ever had were in Europe (Norway especially does it right). The Continent really gets into the elaborate, festive cheer. I’m going to Scotland/Paris/Lyon for Xmas this year and I can not wait!

  2. Oh, your pictures of my hometown of Strasbourg are making me so nostalgic! We used to hang out at the Marche de Noel every day after school, never on the weekend when it’s crowded with tourists… And I have many pictures of myself as a child, posing with Santa at the Marche! (I didn’t drink the Gluhwein until years later though). Thanks for the lovely pictures.

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